Belt from *I danzatori del crepuscolo* (*The Dancers of Twilight*), Caterina Murino , and Antonio Marogna, Inventory No.: 2022.4.1.1-2 © Photo Mucem / Marianne Kuhn

Acquisition: "I danzatori del crepuscolo" (The Dancers of Twilight) Belt

Friday, April 18, 2025

As a continuation of the research and collection project on Mediterranean jewelry conducted in 2018 in Sardinia—where goldsmithing is rich in diverse influences and artisans continue to craft traditional jewelry— the Mucem acquired a piece by Caterina Murino in 2022.

Caterina Murino is a Sardinian actress, best known for her role alongside Daniel Craig—aka James Bond—in *Casino Royale* (2006), but she is also a jewelry designer and a passionate advocate for the craftsmanship of her island’s artisans. She has designed a belt made of filigree silver and coral that embodies the very essence of Sardinian silversmithing, blending tradition with contemporary design. To design the scenes on the belt’s three silver plates, Caterina Murino drew inspiration from the “bronzetti”—small statuettes from the Nuragic era discovered during excavations in Sardinia, some of which are housed at the Archaeological Museum of Cagliari. The animals and small figures depicted in these hunting scenes also echo those found on traditional Sardinian rugs, known as tapetti.

Antonio Marogna, a virtuoso self-taught goldsmith, then crafted this belt in his workshop in Alghero, a village in northwestern Sardinia renowned for its coral. In this village, which was long occupied by the Catalans, coral fishing is practiced in a sustainable and ethical manner under the supervision of the Region of Sardinia. Coral, known for its protective properties, continues to be crafted into jewelry and amulets. Together with the “Eye of Saint Lucy”—a seashell lid collected from Mediterranean beaches—it is said to ward off the evil eye and promote fertility. This belt also echoes the jewelry and other amulets collected in Sardinia in the 1960s by the Musée de l’Homme.

To hold the belt, a case was crafted in Tempio Pausania from the bark of a cork oak, a tree emblematic of Sardinia. The cork was first treated with sheep’s milk by two Sardinian craftswomen to soften it and give it a very smooth texture, before being sewn and lined with velvet.

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